This page contains information that people often ask about their newly coated mirror. 

    Never touch any optical glass surface with your bare finger. A mirror coated with aluminum has a soft surface which is very easily scratched. Also the oils from your finger are slightly corrosive and will react with the mirror coating. If you unwrap your new mirror in a dusty area the mirror may have a few bits of dust on it within seconds. Resist the temptation to blow or wipe the dust off. Either ignore the dust or buy an ear syringe to huff the dust away with air. Alignment of your Newtonian Telescope will be aided by sticking an adhesive paper dot to the center of your mirror. When storing your telescope cover the top with a shower cap or a piece of aluminum foil. Do not store your telescope near swimming pool chemicals. Do not store the telescope with the tube straight up and down because dust will settle on the mirror. At the star party you may spend the night with your telescope outdoors. Before retiring for the night be sure the telescope is turned so that at sunrise the sunlight will first strike the bottom of the mirror cell. If you do not do this the moisture from the tube can evaporate in the warm sun and frost your cold mirror. 

CAUTION  Never turn your telescope near the direction of the sun. Someone may be blinded by the concentrated light of the sun or the tube may be set afire.

Mirror cleaning

    A dusty mirror can perform so that the average person at a star party won't be able to tell. So before embarking on a mirror cleaning project make sure it is worth the trouble. First wash the mirror under the hose to wash away sand and grit. Note that your mirror will be much happier laying face up on damp grass than in the kitchen sink. Just watch out for the sun's reflection. Next immerse the mirror in dilute dish washing detergent in warm water in a plastic pan. Wipe lightly with paper towels to remove grit without scratching the soft aluminum. If the coating is new you may want to pre soak the paper towels. Wash and rinse with warm water. Final drying is most critical. All drops must be absorbed into paper. Blow drying will leave drop marks. Use caution because stiff paper may scratch the coating and soft paper can leave lint. Blotter paper may be pulled across the mirror for drying. If the coating is new do not press down as you pull the paper. At a star party a friend removed the water from his mirror with rubbing alcohol and dried the mirror with toilet tissue. If the mirror has been painted then drying the mirror with alcohol or acetone may leave streaks on the mirror. If the mirror is a small diagonal it may be necessary to warm the alcohol in the sun before use. If the telescope has a dust cover and dew is kept from the mirror the mirror should not need to be cleaned for several years. A small amount of dust on the mirror is best ignored or you can huff the dust off with an ear syringe. 
More about mirror cleaning
.  

Beyond mirror cleaning

    Eventually the coating will become dull even with the best of care. It may take ten years or longer before the average person can notice a loss in the image. Salty or acid air will deteriorate the coating sooner. The mirror will then need to be recoated. 

De-coating in preparation for recoating 

    De-coating in preparation for recoating is best done by Aluminum Coating. The following steps require dangerous chemicals, do not do this yourself! 

De-coating  

    This de-coating procedure works well with Pyrex. Wash gritty dirt from the mirror and clean with solvent to remove spray paint or spider webs. Find two plastic pans, one for chemical and the other for safety water in case you get acid or chemicals on your skin or face. Put the mirror in a plastic pan and put paper towel on the old coating. Pour on enough Ferric Chloride printed circuit board enchant to saturate the paper towel. Circuit board enchant is available from Radio Shack. Wet your hands then smooth the paper towel onto the mirror surface then dip your hands in the water pan. If you have any small cuts on your hand you will become aware of them very quickly. Every few hours turn the paper towel over and smooth it again and add a bit more enchant. Keep the pan covered to reduce evaporation. In an unknown time which can range from twenty minutes to three days you will no longer be able to find any more of the old coating. Continue with the Ferric Chloride for half again longer because there will be bits of the old coating that you cannot see. Wash the mirror and reclaim the Ferric Chloride into its bottle with a plastic funnel. If you dump the wash water out it will leave rust stains. For some reason the Ferric Chloride leaves a bit of deposit on the mirror that will show up after coating. So next we wipe the face with methanol then soak the mirror in 20 percent swimming pool acid which is hydrochloric acid. Immerse the mirror in 20% concentrated HCl solution and add a bit of CuSO4 crystals to the acid if available. CAUTION, use rubber gloves and have plenty of wash water available in case there is a spill. CAUTION, do not allow chemicals to dry on the mirror surface. Soak the mirror in the acid for about 50 percent as long as was required to remove the old coating.
Note on HCl,  Hydrochloric acid is a solution of the acid gas hydrogen chloride in water.  It is only 29 percent HCl gas because that is the maximum amount of HCl that will dissolve in water at room temperature.  Hydrochloric acid is also called muriatic acid.  So 20 percent acid would be about 6 percent HCl gas dissolved in water.  Since HCl is a gas then the liquid acid itself does not need to be in contact with something to cause damage.

     If the mirror coating is less than 10 years the old coating may come off entirely in about 40 minutes in HCl solution. As the aluminum coating becomes older the coating becomes much harder and also more difficult to remove. If the coating is over 25 years old the aluminum is highly oxidized and may have begun to react with the glass. The Ferric Chloride seems to work as fast as concentrated acid but if for some reason you must use concentrated acid do not leave the mirror in 100% saturated HCl overnight or the glass surface may become pitted. Concentrated nitric acid may be added if 100% saturated HCl is ineffective. CAUTION, concentrated acid makes toxic acid gas. Place the mirror in a plastic pan outside when the wind is blowing. Wear rubber gloves and eye protection. With the mirror face up cover the mirror with paper towels before adding the acids. Pour on enough HCl to wet the surface then add a bit of nitric acid. Keep the mirror surface from drying by daubing the surface with acid. After 20 minutes move the mirror to the pan with the safety water to check for progress. When finished dilute the concentrated acids slightly then neutralize with bicarbonate of soda. Bicarbonate of soda is available at the swimming pool store. Some glasses other than Pyrex and Port Hole glass seem to be liable to acid damage.  If the mirror is very old removal of the coating with acid without damaging the glass may be impossible. The old coating can be removed using a pitch lap as described in alt_12. The mirror figure will then need to be rechecked. Ninety year old glass will likely be crazed on the surface, possibly requiring regrinding. CAUTION, you may find people that recommend using lye to remove the old coating. Lye will remove the coating and also a bit of the Pyrex. Here are some quotes for those planning telescope work. For the Astronomer: "If it isn't broken don't fix it". For the experimenter: "Experiment cheap". 

Coating  

Aluminum coating is done by Aluminum Coating in a high vacuum tank. Aluminum metal is evaporated from a wire near the bottom of the tank and coats the mirror which is being rotated at the top of the tank. A very thin SiO transparent coating is coated over the aluminum coating. The mirror never becomes hot. A recoated mirror looks just as good as new.  Information on installing the mirror.

BACK

 

 

----- Original Message -----
From: coating_customer
To: 'alcoat'
Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2006 1:13 PM
Subject: RE: Aluminizing

Hi Bob,  

Thanks for your prompt aluminizing service on my telescope mirrors.  

I finally got around to installing, collimating, and testing them, and while the images are much improved they still fall far short of their original acuity.  Stars de-focus into pillow-shaped squares instead of concentric rings.  

I’d appreciate your advice.

( Editor note, mirror had been in a house fire. )

The problem you describe is not typical

of a coating problem.  Could it be caused
by bad collimation?
Coating problems might more likely result in
loss of contrast.
 
Be sure when star testing to get something comfortable
to sit on so your head is always aligned the same
way for each comparison.  Otherwise you will have a
problem with two unknowns.  If your eye glasses have astigmic
correction then when your head is tilted the axis of astigmatism
will not be correct because your eyeball will rotate
relative to your head ( and glasses ).
 
Try rotating the eyepiece first since that is the easiest,
also try a different eyepiece since there might be
some unknown damage to the eyepiece.
 
If you are fairly certain the problem is not in the eyepieces
then look at a double star, e Lyre for instance, and note the
diameter of the abberated star image compared to the
dark separation between the stars.  If the dark separation
increases relative to the abberated image with higher power
then the higher power eyepiece is of higher quality or the
aberration is in your eye.

Try defocusing the eyepiece inside and outside of focus.
How does the image compare inside and outside of focus?

Check the diagonal support vanes to see if they seem
normal.  

Try blowing some air into the tube with a hair drier
set on cold and watch the aberration to see if it settles back
into the same pattern.

Make a drawing of the problem and tape it to the scope

then put an index mark on the primary and rotate
it 90 degrees and test again after re collimating.
If the diagonal is of unknown vintage and you have another diagonal,
even if it is the wrong size,
try with that.

On a Newtonian scope the things above are the 
most probable things that can account for your problem other

than some type of atmospheric refraction near
the horizon. 

The old Amateur Telescope Making books talk about warped
mirrors but I have not found any of these yet.  Maybe modern
glass is better annealed.  
Removing an old coating with a polishing lap is a good way
to remove a stubborn coating such as a coating with a chrome
or nichrome primer coating but could easily cause the aberrations
described.

 
Bob Fies
 

///////////////////////////////////


Woo-hoo!  We finally finished, after 2.5 years, and the telescope is working! 

As a word of warning to those still in process, though,
do not get lazy in your polishing.  
Our mirror has a powdery look, and is not as shiny as ones I have seen in the past.
Bob said this was because we had insufficiently polished the rascal.  
Now, I am regretfully considering re-polishing, but you can spare yourself 
this anxiety by doing it right the first time. 

Happy holiday wishes to all,
Walt       

-----Original Message-----
From: dobson@.com
On Behalf Of Kenneth F
Sent: Saturday, December 16, 2006 9:01 AM
To: nancy@.com; John Dobson telescope making class fall 2006;

////////////////////////////////

Hi Bob,
 
I thought you might be interested to see the results of knife edge tests before and after you coated my mirror.  It looks like, if there was any change, it is within the measurement error. All the numbers are in mm and referenced to zone 5.
 
zone   |   before, 0 deg.  |   before, 90 deg.      |      after ? deg. |   after ?+90 deg.  |     ideal
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1               0.11                      0.19                       0.17                  -0.05                 0.19
2               0.81                      0.71                       0.71                   0.67                 0.63
3               1.15                      1.15                       1.12                   1.06                 1.05
4               1.48                      1.41                       1.42                   1.47                 1.47
5               1.96                      1.96                       1.96                   1.96                 1.96
 
So it looks like the coating is very uniform!
 
Regards,
 
Charles

////////////////////////////

Hello Bob,
 
I received the mirror and diagonal and they were in fine shape.  Thank you for the coating service.  Great job!
 
Season's Greetings.
Jerry